Sunday, 19 May 2013
Planning for Italia
We will be be travelling to Italy this coming fall so keep an eye on this blog for updates on the trip!
Friday, 26 October 2012
End of the Earth - Finisterre
Russ
Hi everyone,
Well, now we've REALLY completed our Camino. We arrived in Finisterre yesterday afternoon after three though days of walking - 90 km in all, two of the three days in rainy conditions. This morning, after an evening in an overrated one star hotel we walked the last three kilometers to a lighthouse that marks the spot the Romans called Finisterre - the end of the earth, as it was the westernmost point of land known to them. This is the end of the Camino Finisterre and the end of Linda and Russ's Camino. We walked about 900 km and crossed the entire country of Spain.
Late this morning, along with our Danish friends, we got into a taxi (the first non-walking transportation since St. Jean PDP in France six weeks ago) and drove north to the town of Muxia, where we will spend the night. We wanted to see this town because they filmed here in The Way. We saw the location used in the movie scene and have spent the afternoon wandering about. Tomorrow we will take the afternoon bus back to Santiago and spend a couple of days there before going on to Madrid, then Amsterdam for a few days. We need to spend more time in Santiago to contemplate our Camino and what it means to us.
Now that our pilgrim days are over we are adjusting to being tourists, getting our feet healed and thinking more and more about returning home. We are especially eager to return to our family - we miss you all very much. We've had wonderful news about Tim and Nic expecting a baby sister for Talen. We are also eager to meet Greg's girlfriend, Evelina, who is in Vancouver now.
We may post another blog or two between now and our return, Nov 5.
TTFN
Sent from my iPod
Hi everyone,
Well, now we've REALLY completed our Camino. We arrived in Finisterre yesterday afternoon after three though days of walking - 90 km in all, two of the three days in rainy conditions. This morning, after an evening in an overrated one star hotel we walked the last three kilometers to a lighthouse that marks the spot the Romans called Finisterre - the end of the earth, as it was the westernmost point of land known to them. This is the end of the Camino Finisterre and the end of Linda and Russ's Camino. We walked about 900 km and crossed the entire country of Spain.
Late this morning, along with our Danish friends, we got into a taxi (the first non-walking transportation since St. Jean PDP in France six weeks ago) and drove north to the town of Muxia, where we will spend the night. We wanted to see this town because they filmed here in The Way. We saw the location used in the movie scene and have spent the afternoon wandering about. Tomorrow we will take the afternoon bus back to Santiago and spend a couple of days there before going on to Madrid, then Amsterdam for a few days. We need to spend more time in Santiago to contemplate our Camino and what it means to us.
Now that our pilgrim days are over we are adjusting to being tourists, getting our feet healed and thinking more and more about returning home. We are especially eager to return to our family - we miss you all very much. We've had wonderful news about Tim and Nic expecting a baby sister for Talen. We are also eager to meet Greg's girlfriend, Evelina, who is in Vancouver now.
We may post another blog or two between now and our return, Nov 5.
TTFN
Sent from my iPod
Tuesday, 23 October 2012
Certified Pilgrims!
October 23
Linda
Hola amigos! Yesterday we walked into Santiago at approximately 10:30 AM. It was exciting and a little surreal to enter the city and see the huge Cathedral, and know that we had done it!! Our Danish friends, Erik and Margit, actually met us on the street as we entered, so that was a very nice surprise. They showed us where the pilgrim office was, so we could register and receive our "compostela" before the noon pilgrim mass. They also were kind enough to take our backpacks to our hotel so we didn´t have to deal with them at the mass. The mass was in Spanish but very beautiful and at one point the priest read out all of the pilgrims who had completed the Camino that day, and where they had started from (3 people from Canada started from St Jean Pied de Port) - that was as much detail as he gave,but it was still nice to hear! While walking around the town we kept bumping into fellow pilgrims who we had met at some point along the way, so it was a very joyous atmosphere, and everyone was congratulating each other. Some people were planning to continue on to Finisterre, while others were saying goodbyes as they would be heading home shortly.
We had decided previously to continue on to Finisterre with our friends, which we started this morning, and it was a perfect day- beautiful warm weather, lovely forest paths to walk on, and great company. We had to walk 22 km to get to a town with albergues,but tomorrow we may have to walk 30 km. The towns are farther apart on this route, so not as easy to stop when you feel like it! We will see how the weather is tomorrow, and decide then how far we feel like going. Now that we´ve completed the main Camino, we do not feel as rushed about this part!!
That´s it for now.
Linda
Hola amigos! Yesterday we walked into Santiago at approximately 10:30 AM. It was exciting and a little surreal to enter the city and see the huge Cathedral, and know that we had done it!! Our Danish friends, Erik and Margit, actually met us on the street as we entered, so that was a very nice surprise. They showed us where the pilgrim office was, so we could register and receive our "compostela" before the noon pilgrim mass. They also were kind enough to take our backpacks to our hotel so we didn´t have to deal with them at the mass. The mass was in Spanish but very beautiful and at one point the priest read out all of the pilgrims who had completed the Camino that day, and where they had started from (3 people from Canada started from St Jean Pied de Port) - that was as much detail as he gave,but it was still nice to hear! While walking around the town we kept bumping into fellow pilgrims who we had met at some point along the way, so it was a very joyous atmosphere, and everyone was congratulating each other. Some people were planning to continue on to Finisterre, while others were saying goodbyes as they would be heading home shortly.
We had decided previously to continue on to Finisterre with our friends, which we started this morning, and it was a perfect day- beautiful warm weather, lovely forest paths to walk on, and great company. We had to walk 22 km to get to a town with albergues,but tomorrow we may have to walk 30 km. The towns are farther apart on this route, so not as easy to stop when you feel like it! We will see how the weather is tomorrow, and decide then how far we feel like going. Now that we´ve completed the main Camino, we do not feel as rushed about this part!!
That´s it for now.
Saturday, 20 October 2012
52 km to Santiago!
Linda- Oct 20
We are in Melide for the night, and are pretty bagged after walking 31 km today. The weather has been wonderful since my last blog entry, and we are savouring these last few days of walking. Melide is known for its pulpo (octopus), and we have just finished a "snack" of pulpo, bread and white wine at the best restaurant in town for this dish. It is served on a wooden board with toothpicks, and is cut into nice small pieces which have been cooked in garlic and butter- wonderful.
We have been thinking about our next few days, and will likely arrive in Santiago on the 22nd. At this point we plan to leave for Finisterre on the 24th, and it takes 3 days to walk there. We have heard that only 4% of pilgrims carry on to Finisterre. Apparently the albergues are quite nice along that route, so we are looking forward to it. We need to be back in Santiago on the 27th to meet our Danish friends who we haven't seen for almost a month.
We certainly have mixed feelings as we approach Santiago. We wonder if we can walk like this at home, and realize it won't be the same without the smell of cow dung and wood stoves as the sun is rising! I can understand why people return to the Camino year after year (we have talked about it, and agree that our bodies couldn't do it a second time!).
Adios for now......
Sent from my iPod
We are in Melide for the night, and are pretty bagged after walking 31 km today. The weather has been wonderful since my last blog entry, and we are savouring these last few days of walking. Melide is known for its pulpo (octopus), and we have just finished a "snack" of pulpo, bread and white wine at the best restaurant in town for this dish. It is served on a wooden board with toothpicks, and is cut into nice small pieces which have been cooked in garlic and butter- wonderful.
We have been thinking about our next few days, and will likely arrive in Santiago on the 22nd. At this point we plan to leave for Finisterre on the 24th, and it takes 3 days to walk there. We have heard that only 4% of pilgrims carry on to Finisterre. Apparently the albergues are quite nice along that route, so we are looking forward to it. We need to be back in Santiago on the 27th to meet our Danish friends who we haven't seen for almost a month.
We certainly have mixed feelings as we approach Santiago. We wonder if we can walk like this at home, and realize it won't be the same without the smell of cow dung and wood stoves as the sun is rising! I can understand why people return to the Camino year after year (we have talked about it, and agree that our bodies couldn't do it a second time!).
Adios for now......
Sent from my iPod
Wednesday, 17 October 2012
Galicia!
October 17- Linda
Well, we now know what it´s like to walk in the rain!! We entered the province of Galicia yesterday, and our guidebook had mentioned the frequent rains and the green countryside, and it IS beautiful, but the rain can really wear you down when you´re in it for five or six hours! Yesterday we walked about 25 km before starting our ascent to the village of O´Cebreiro, and the climbing part was about 1.2 km of vertical, mostly on trails which had become small rivers, and lots of rocks and muck to dodge. Not a lot of fun! I really struggled at one point and realized I had just simply run out of gas, and once we stopped for a snack and hot chocolate I was fine. Guess finding out what your limitations are is part of this! Even when things are looking pretty glum, things happen on the Camino that lift your spirits - just when I was having the most trouble, I noticed a small round rock with a bright yellow happy face smiling at me! Shortly after that, Russ and I were stopped on the trail while he was helping me retrieve my hat from my pack, when along came four HUGE cows (complete with very large horns), right towards us! An elderly woman was leading them, and casually gestured for us to move aside (I´m sure she saw the look of fear on my face), so we just waited while they plodded past, and her husband brought up the rear (no pun intended). I´m sure they deal with these pesky pilgrims everyday, but it was definitely the highlight of our walk yesterday.
O´Cebreiro was a very foggy and damp place, and we stayed in a hotel rather than the albergue in the hopes that our belongings could dry out a bit better. Today we had another rainy walk, descending down the mountain, but the fog lifted often enough for us to enjoy some lovely vistas of green pastures divided by lines of trees, which made a beautiful patchwork on the hills. We have also observed what looks like young bulls in the pastures, so we think they may raise them for bullfighting. Tomorrow we walk to Sarria, which is 113 km from Santiago. It is at that point that many pilgrims join the trail who wish to walk the minimum 100 km required to receive a certificate in Santiago. Not only will there be more pilgrims on the trail, but getting accommodation can be challenging. As tomorrow´s walk is only 18.7 km, we may go past Sarria to the next small town.
Til next time....
Well, we now know what it´s like to walk in the rain!! We entered the province of Galicia yesterday, and our guidebook had mentioned the frequent rains and the green countryside, and it IS beautiful, but the rain can really wear you down when you´re in it for five or six hours! Yesterday we walked about 25 km before starting our ascent to the village of O´Cebreiro, and the climbing part was about 1.2 km of vertical, mostly on trails which had become small rivers, and lots of rocks and muck to dodge. Not a lot of fun! I really struggled at one point and realized I had just simply run out of gas, and once we stopped for a snack and hot chocolate I was fine. Guess finding out what your limitations are is part of this! Even when things are looking pretty glum, things happen on the Camino that lift your spirits - just when I was having the most trouble, I noticed a small round rock with a bright yellow happy face smiling at me! Shortly after that, Russ and I were stopped on the trail while he was helping me retrieve my hat from my pack, when along came four HUGE cows (complete with very large horns), right towards us! An elderly woman was leading them, and casually gestured for us to move aside (I´m sure she saw the look of fear on my face), so we just waited while they plodded past, and her husband brought up the rear (no pun intended). I´m sure they deal with these pesky pilgrims everyday, but it was definitely the highlight of our walk yesterday.
O´Cebreiro was a very foggy and damp place, and we stayed in a hotel rather than the albergue in the hopes that our belongings could dry out a bit better. Today we had another rainy walk, descending down the mountain, but the fog lifted often enough for us to enjoy some lovely vistas of green pastures divided by lines of trees, which made a beautiful patchwork on the hills. We have also observed what looks like young bulls in the pastures, so we think they may raise them for bullfighting. Tomorrow we walk to Sarria, which is 113 km from Santiago. It is at that point that many pilgrims join the trail who wish to walk the minimum 100 km required to receive a certificate in Santiago. Not only will there be more pilgrims on the trail, but getting accommodation can be challenging. As tomorrow´s walk is only 18.7 km, we may go past Sarria to the next small town.
Til next time....
Monday, 15 October 2012
Bonus - photos
I found a computer that had an SD card reader so here are a few photos:
Dawn in Orrison - this is the second morning of the trip, part way through the Pyrenees.
Having a drink with our Danish friends - Erik and Margit - part of our Camino ´family´
View of one of the towns we stayed in (name escapes me). It´s in the Rioja district, as you might guess by the vineyard.
View of Burgos cathedral - impossible to get the whole thing in one photo.
The Meseta
One of many bridges we crossed built by the Romans.
The ´Bishop´s Palace´ designed by the architect Gaudi, located in Astorga. You should check out Gaudi on Wikipedia - amazing stuff.
Fire Salamander - and a bit of rain on the camera lens.
Dawn in Orrison - this is the second morning of the trip, part way through the Pyrenees.
Having a drink with our Danish friends - Erik and Margit - part of our Camino ´family´
View of one of the towns we stayed in (name escapes me). It´s in the Rioja district, as you might guess by the vineyard.
View of Burgos cathedral - impossible to get the whole thing in one photo.
The Meseta
One of many bridges we crossed built by the Romans.
The ´Bishop´s Palace´ designed by the architect Gaudi, located in Astorga. You should check out Gaudi on Wikipedia - amazing stuff.
Fire Salamander - and a bit of rain on the camera lens.
Cruz de Ferro and beyond
Russ
Hi everyone,
Yesterday we experienced the toughest weather of the trip. It was cold, windy and rainy for most of the day. We started out in the dark and reached Cruz de Ferro at dawn. We were the first ones there and had a somber few moments when we place our rocks at the base of the cross. The rock pile is about 15 feet high and is made up of thousands of rocks brought by pilgrims. People leave rocks there for various reasons: some commemorate loved ones, some ask for blessings, some ask for forgiveness. Linda and I placed our own rocks along with a few tears, and also two small stones on behalf of dear friends Mike and Beth. This was a very special moment for us, in spite of the cold and rain.
As we walked on from the monument I almost stepped on the most beautiful amazing creature we have seen on the Camino. It was a jet black salamander, about ¨6 inches long. It had bright yellow markings on it. I would have sworn it was a kid´s toy but when I gently touched it with my pole it moved!! It was a fire salamander - look it up in Wikipedia!!
We walked all the way to Ponferrada yesterday - we went the extra distance to try and visit the templar castle located in the town. However, because it was Sunday, it turned out to be closed. Nonetheless, we saw the castle from the outside - it is spectacular. It was built in the 12th century and is one of the best preserved Templar artifacts in the world. We stayed in a nice hostal (hotel, really - had our own bathroom and double bed! What luxury!), and our room had a perfect view of the castle across the road. At dinner time we had read in the guide to try the local specialty - pork sausages. Seems reasonable, right?
Nope - we ordered the three course meal, starting with blood sausage and egg appetizer - this was actually quite good but a very generous portion. Next came the main course. I blanched when I saw the huge size of the plates - in addition to several potatoes, half a cabbage and a pork sausage, there was this big ¨thing¨ in the middle of each plate. It turned out to be something like a very large pig´s knuckle - called botillo in Spanish. Look this up in Wikipedia too! It wouldn´t have been so bad except the seasoning was not especially pleasant. It seems the only thing Spaniards like more than large portions of meat for dinner is large portions of nitrite-laden cured meat! Thank heavens the last course, dessert, was pleasant. Add to this that you can´t eat a meal in Spain before 8 p.m., the time when Spanish restaurants open, and you need to get to bed by about 9 to get your body rested for the next long day. Well, it doesn´t work so well.
By the way, we are in Villafranca del Bierzo at the moment, about 185 km from Santiago. Tomorrow´s walk is to be a very long one with a big climb so we´ll see how that goes. Bodies holding up well at the moment.
Bye for now.
Hi everyone,
Yesterday we experienced the toughest weather of the trip. It was cold, windy and rainy for most of the day. We started out in the dark and reached Cruz de Ferro at dawn. We were the first ones there and had a somber few moments when we place our rocks at the base of the cross. The rock pile is about 15 feet high and is made up of thousands of rocks brought by pilgrims. People leave rocks there for various reasons: some commemorate loved ones, some ask for blessings, some ask for forgiveness. Linda and I placed our own rocks along with a few tears, and also two small stones on behalf of dear friends Mike and Beth. This was a very special moment for us, in spite of the cold and rain.
As we walked on from the monument I almost stepped on the most beautiful amazing creature we have seen on the Camino. It was a jet black salamander, about ¨6 inches long. It had bright yellow markings on it. I would have sworn it was a kid´s toy but when I gently touched it with my pole it moved!! It was a fire salamander - look it up in Wikipedia!!
We walked all the way to Ponferrada yesterday - we went the extra distance to try and visit the templar castle located in the town. However, because it was Sunday, it turned out to be closed. Nonetheless, we saw the castle from the outside - it is spectacular. It was built in the 12th century and is one of the best preserved Templar artifacts in the world. We stayed in a nice hostal (hotel, really - had our own bathroom and double bed! What luxury!), and our room had a perfect view of the castle across the road. At dinner time we had read in the guide to try the local specialty - pork sausages. Seems reasonable, right?
Nope - we ordered the three course meal, starting with blood sausage and egg appetizer - this was actually quite good but a very generous portion. Next came the main course. I blanched when I saw the huge size of the plates - in addition to several potatoes, half a cabbage and a pork sausage, there was this big ¨thing¨ in the middle of each plate. It turned out to be something like a very large pig´s knuckle - called botillo in Spanish. Look this up in Wikipedia too! It wouldn´t have been so bad except the seasoning was not especially pleasant. It seems the only thing Spaniards like more than large portions of meat for dinner is large portions of nitrite-laden cured meat! Thank heavens the last course, dessert, was pleasant. Add to this that you can´t eat a meal in Spain before 8 p.m., the time when Spanish restaurants open, and you need to get to bed by about 9 to get your body rested for the next long day. Well, it doesn´t work so well.
By the way, we are in Villafranca del Bierzo at the moment, about 185 km from Santiago. Tomorrow´s walk is to be a very long one with a big climb so we´ll see how that goes. Bodies holding up well at the moment.
Bye for now.
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